If you want
to focus on Naples’ top attractions then use this one day itinerary to get you
around the city. Stroll down Spaccanapoli which runs through the Old Town; see
work by Caravaggio in the Pio Monte della Misericordia church and visit the
magnificent Naples Cathedral and Chiesa dei Girolamini. See the underground
world of Naples Sotterranea and visit Via San Gregorio Armeno, a street lined
with workshops creating nativity scenes. The itinerary also includes the
Cappella di Sansevero and the National Archaeological Museum.

This street is
6 meters wide and runs for 2km from Piazza Gesu Nuovo where it is called Via
Benedetto Croce, changes name to Via S. Biagio dei Librai and continues across
Via Duomo becoming Via Vicaria Vecchia going out of the old town. It is the
main stretch for tourists which splits the center of the historic old town
(centro storico) in half. The street was one of three Greco-Roman parallel main
streets originally called Decumanus inferior. The street is not only an
attraction in itself but is conveniently close to many of the city’s top
attractions like Santa Chiara, Santa Maria, San Biagio Maggiore and several of
the well known city squares. It is a straight narrow cobbled street running
through a vibrant, colorful, noisy and exciting neighborhood also referred to
as Spaccanapoli. The street will take you passed palaces, churches, shrines,
stores, bars, restaurants and artists’ workshops. Start exploring the street
from Piazza San Domenico Maggiore. Spaccanapoli is a foodies heaven, there are
many authentic restaurants as well as excellent pastry stores like Scaturchio
known for its sfogliatelle and babba.
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This church
holds several valuable works of art. Its most famous piece is The Seven
Works of Mercy by Caravaggio which hangs above the high altar. The church
is also home to work by Carlo Sellitto, Luca Giordano, Battistello Caracciolo
and Fabrizio Santafede. The church belonged to the Pious Mount of Mercy
brotherhood of charitable noblemen established in 1601 to provide interest-free
loans to the poor. The brotherhood still exists today and continued its
charitable work. They commissioned the construction of a church designed by
Gian Giacomo di Conforto and soon received official recognition from the Pope.
From 1658 to 1678 the church underwent renovations and was expanded by
annexation of neighboring properties. The improved octagonal-shaped church and
facilities were designed by Francesco Antonio Picchiati and include a palace
and church within the complex.
On the first
floor above the church you can visit the Picture Gallery or Quadreria. It holds
31 restored canvases and a collection of 16th to 19th
century art including pieces by Giordano, Vaccaro, Francesco de Mura, Giuseppe Ribera,
Massimo Stanzione and Caracciolo. Visitors can see the church and Picture
Gallery using an audio guide.
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The Duomo di
Santa Maria Assunta or Duomo di San Gennaro is a medieval cathedral established
in the 4th century but the baptistery is the only surviving part of the
original structure. The present building is in the Gothic-style and was completed
in 1323. Antonio Baboccio redesigned the west façade in 1407 following damage
from an earthquake. Again in 1877-1905 the façade was renovated by Enrico
Alvino. The portal has survived from the medieval structure.
The church
has a large nave with over 100 granite columns brought from the Africa and the
Far East. Most of the interior décor is in the baroque-style. There are
portraits of saints by Luca Giordano and the beautiful ceiling mural is by
Fabrizio Santafede (1621). The Basilica di Santa Restituta or Capella di Santa
Restituta is the site of the original church and is off to the left side of the
nave; it is the oldest church in Naples. You can see part of an Early Christian
mosaic floor; columns from an earlier Greek temple and a Roman floor mosaic in
the excavations in the crypt. In the Reale Cappella del Tesoro di San Gennaro
you can see lavish decoration, frescoes by Domenichino and Giovanni Lanfranco, altar
pieces by Domenichino, Massimo Stanzione, Jusepe Ribera and Francesco Solimena
and Cosimo Fanzago bronze work.
The
cathedral holds a vial of Saint Januarius (Saint Gennaro) blood. Gennaro was a
former Bishop of Naples and is now the city’s patron saint. On the saint’s day
(September 19), December 16 and the first Sunday in May each year the miracle
of the blood is said to occur here when the blood liquefies. Gennaro lived
during a period of Christian persecution at the hands of Emperor Diocletian.
Gennaro was instrumental in saving many Christians from the authorities. In
304AD he was arrested and thrown to the lions which bowed down to him. The
authorities then had him beheaded. The cathedral holds the relics of Gennaro
including his head. In addition the cathedral holds ancient Roman excavations
in the crypt.
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The
Girolamini Church was established in the late 16th century and early
17th century. It was named for the followers of San Filippo Neri who
bought a former palace which stood on this site and had it demolished and a
church built in its place. The complex was originally in the Florentine
Renaissance style but was enlarged in the 18th century and valuable
art was added. In the 19th
century there was a revolutionary change in the law concerning church property
and so in 1866 the church became a National Monument. The complex consists of a
library (Biblioteca Girolamini), picture gallery and the famous church. There
are two cloisters, the chiostro maiolicato decorated with Majolica tiles and a
larger cloister which is a continuation of the first and takes visitors into
the Quadreria where the art collection is on display. Architects involved in
the creation of the complex included Florentini Giovan Antonio Dosio, Dionisio
Nencioni di Bartolomeo, Giovane Dioniso Lazzari and Antonio Talpa.
Every
surface of the beautiful Monumental Church interior is covered with frescoes.
It is a rich baroque confectionary. There is a gilt ceiling, altar pieces by
Gaetano Pandolfi, a statue of Madonna
della Neve by Polidoro di Caravaggio and art work on the walls by many well
known artists. The church has two facades, one facing Piazza dei Girolamini on
Via dei Tribunali. Ferdinando Fuga was responsible for the reconstruction of
the façade in 1780 and the statues on the façade are by Giuseppe Sammartino. The
picture gallery has a rich collection of Tuscan art. In the Sacristy there are
paintings by Guido Reni and Giordano; in the next room there is a ceiling fresco
by Beinaschi.
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Travel back
2400 years to the heart of where Naples began. The historic site is situated
underground beneath the Naples old town. The underground world shows marks and
signs from many eras in the history of Naples. The subterranean world tells the
story of Naples’ history and is full of legends and myths. Running beneath the
city are geothermal zones originating at Mt. Vesuvius. The geothermal pressure
caused volcanic sandstone, tufa, which is easy to work with and used to build
the city. The mining shafts left large cavities in the ground which were later
used for different purposes in each successive eras including the Angevin,
Argonese and Bourbon.
The
underground world is a complex labyrinth of chambers, tunnels, cisterns and
cavities. The Ancient Greeks used the subterranean aqueducts to bring water to
the city; they were used as sewers; a theatre; places of worship; burial
chambers and modern road tunnels. The underground world can only be visited
with a tour. The tour includes Greek-Roman aqueduct, medieval tunnels, Bourbon tunnels
and large water cisterns. During WWII
spiral stairways were added to the cisterns so that they could be used as bomb
shelters. Visitors can also see the underground Ipogei gardens where a special
species of basil is grown - underground. You can also visit the remains of a
Roman amphitheatre reached through a trapdoor. One of the tunnels is narrow and
some people might want to wait for 10 minutes while the rest of the tour goes
in.
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Not to be
confused with the church San Gregorio Armeno which gives this street its name.
This narrow cobbled alley between Via dei Tribunali and Via San Biagio dei
Librai is also known as Christmas Alley. On both sides of the alley are artists
‘workshops and stores producing and selling nativity scenes or presepi. Naples
is famed for its presepi scenes and individual figurines and “accessories.”
People come to buy the nativity scenes on Via San Gregorio Armeno because the
stores here are open year round – it is Christmas here 365 days a year. Of
course December is the busiest time of year but whenever you visit Naples
you’ll be able to stock up on Christmas paraphernalia.
The artists’
workshops and stores spill out onto the sidewalk making a very colorful and
merry scene. You can get the bits and pieces to make your own nativity scene
including cribs, figurines, Christmas lights, animated characters, mangers,
stars, angels and the three wise men. The quality and price vary from store to
store including fine works of art in terracotta, wood, ceramics, fabric and
metal. The vendors have let their imaginations run wild and you can get much
more than the traditional Naples nativities scenes.
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This chapel
is also called Chapel of Santa Maria della Pieta or Pietatella. It is located
in the historic area of Naples and is best known for the many precious works of
art by 18th century masters. The chapel is shrouded in legend. In
about 1590 a wrongly convicted man was led to prison passed the garden of the
di Sangro Palace. He witnessed part of the wall cave in and an image of the
Virgin Mary appear. He vowed to offer a silver lamp and dedication if his
innocence was recognized. The man was released and kept his vow. The site where
he saw the image of the Madonna became sacred. Not long after than Giovan
Francesco di Sangro, Duke of Torremaggiore fell ill and preyed at the sacred
site. He was cured and erected a modest chapel at the site in thanks. His son
Alessandro di Sangro later built a more elaborate chapel in the 17th
century. Only some features of the 17th century structure remains
including the polychrome decorated apse. It became the family tomb in 1613 and
was later renovated to its present appearance by Prince Raimondo di Sangro. He
added several features including Masonic symbols. A secret passage way led to
the Sansevero Palace until 1888.
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This museum
is housed in a 17th century house and holds a rich collection of
Roman artifacts from Pompeii, Stabiae and Herculaneum as well as an Egyptian
collection. The ancient art includes works produced in the Roman era, Greek era
and Renaissance era. It is considered one of the most important museums in the
city and one of the most important in the world. The core of the collection
includes engraved gems like the Farnese Cup, a 2nd century
cup; Ptolemaic Bowl and the Treasure of the Magnificent.
The Herculaneum Papyri is one of the museum highlights. It was
carbonized by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius. Much of the collection comes from
the Farnese Marbles. The collection includes Roman copies of classic Greek
statues. Among the highlights there is the Farnese Hercules, Farnese Atlas,
Farnese Bull and the Venus Kallipygos. There are works in
bronze and a mosaic collection, frescoes from Pompeii as well as an Egyptian
collection. There is the Secret Cabinet collection of sex-related
erotica from ancient Pompeii and Herculaneum. The collection has an interesting
history and can be viewed by those over 14
and by those under 14 years if accompanied by an adult. There are also
collections of medals, glassware, coins and silver and a model of what Pompeii
looked like before the volcanic eruption destroyed it. The works are displayed
according to their origin and in 26 thematic categories.
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